8 March 2016 - MALAYSIA

MALAYSIA

G'day folks,

Here is another country I'm posting in my series on countries worth visiting, courtesy of Travelfish. Malaysia is a Southeast Asian country occupying the Malaysian Peninsula and part of the island of Borneo. It's known for its beaches, rain forests and mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and European influences. The sprawling capital, Kuala Lumpur, is home to colonial buildings, busy shopping districts such as Bukit Bintang and skyscrapers including the iconic, 451m-tall Petronas Twin Towers.

Stunning, ethnically diverse Malaysia is Southeast Asia's unsung holiday hero, offering travellers a huge range of attractions to choose from. Mix and match a trip that includes lush jungle trekking, chilling out on white-sand beaches, amazing snorkelling and diving, gastronomic adventuring and immersing yourself in a colourful cultural heritage.

With the bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur midway between the UNESCO-listed towns of Penang and Melaka, and also just a few hours by bus from the sprawling Taman Negara National Park, many of Malaysia's highlights are both affordable and easy to reach.

Whether you're a budget-minded independent backpacker or a tourist with cash to flash, Malaysia satisfies against an exotic backdrop of wafting call-to-prayers, eye-watering spicy street foods and the chatter of a friendly, cosmopolitan people. The Malaysian calendar is packed with festivals, so do your research and try to get here when one that appeals to your interests takes place.
 

Malaysia tends to get unfairly shortthrifted by travellers to Southeast Asia. Backpackers imagine Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam to be cheaper destinations and often leave Malaysia off their itineraries altogether – a grave mistake. While overall your cash may get you further in those countries, you can travel very well on a low budget in Malaysia and at the same time avoid the hordes of tourists you'll find on the well-beaten paths elsewhere. Malaysia also lacks the glamour many associate with the luxury resorts of Thailand, but unfairly so as the kingdom boasts some seriously bank-balance-busting destination hotels to rival the best in the region.

The country is geographically split in two. Peninsular Malaysia covers the entire southern portion of the Malay peninsula on mainland Southeast Asia and is home to 11 states plus Malaysia's two "capitals." Then there's less-populated Borneo, across the South China Sea, a huge and rugged island that Malaysia shares with Indonesia. It's worth covering ground in both parts as you'll want to see the natural wonders of the two states of Sabah and Sarawak on Borneo – choose from 23 national parks! -- as well as the array of more mainstream sights on the peninsula.

Kick off a visit to Malaysia in the capital proper, Kuala Lumpur, where towering skyscrapers, air-conditioned malls and a well-functioning road and public transport system will impress. The Singapore-like functionality is really the fruit of former leader Mahathir Mohamad's push to transform the once mostly agrarian nation into the developed world. These days young Malaysian designers lead the ongoing evolution in KL, as it's usually known, with funky bars and restaurants opening their doors to the stylish set.

Just south of KL is Melaka, the cradle of Malay civilisation. Relax to the chilled out vibe here and enjoy the gorgeous Dutch- and Portuguese-influenced architecture while getting to know Malaysian food, a delightful blend of Chinese, Malay and Indian influences.

The island of Penang off Peninsular Malaysia's west coast was once settled by the British and today the fascinating Georgetown boasts restored colonial architecture – and we reckon some of the region's best food (this despite the Brits).

To many people, Langkawi is to Malaysia as Phuket is to Thailand: Flash resorts and vast beaches plied by jet skis and yachts. It's not quite that simple however as you can do Langkawi on a budget, sort of. Those keener on low-key islands should head instead to Malaysia's east coast, where the Perhentians and Pulau Tioman beckon, offering superb snorkelling and diving -- or pop north of the border to Thailand's glorious Ko Tarutao island group.

Looking inland, Taman Negara is home to some of the world's oldest tropical rainforests and has plenty to keep nature lovers occupied, including Gunung Tahan, Peninsular Malaysia's highest peak. The park, established in 1938, is an island of environmentalism in what is otherwise an ocean of palm plantations that has gobbled up much of Peninsular Malaysia.

While not in the same ballpark as Taman Negara, Cameron Highlands was once exquisite in its own way, but like many "green destinations" it has been ravaged by short-term and at times idiotic development. Still, it remains a laid back destination and offers a (relatively) chilly respite from the humidity plaguing the rest of the country, as well as more British history and influence: think high teas, golf and bird-watching.
 

Those looking for more untouched wilds however, should head to Malaysian Borneo -- the northern slice of massive Borneo. Sabah is the smaller of Borneo's two Malay states and offers the 4,101-metre high Mount Kinabalu to conquer -- Malaysia's highest peak -- as well as the interesting city of Kota Kinabalu and picture-postcard islands of Gaya and Manukan, and the diving meccas of Pulau Sipadan and Mabul, where glimpses of mammoth sea-bound animals come thick and fast.

Larger, wilder, and less touristed still, Sarawak is in fact the largest state in all of Malaysia and boasts one of its most enthralling capitals -- the old colonial relic of Kuching. Aside from being a fine destination in its own right, Kuching is also one of the best spots in Sarawak to use as a base for exploring the hinterland. The state is awash in national parks, including Bako and Gunung Mulu, and unlike Peninsular Malaysia much of it remains rainforested.

What not to miss

Eat your way through Kuala Lumpur or Penang (or both). Swim with turtles on the Perhentian Islands. Explore the grandeur of Taman Negara National Park. Experience the diving and forested wonder that remains in Eastern Malaysia (Borneo).

When to go

Eastern Peninsular Malaysia and Malay Borneo see their wettest period between November and February. The west coast of the Peninsula sees the wet between May and September. The climate is hot and humid year round -- regardless of if it is raining or not!

TRAVELFISH

Clancy's comment: Yes, like many Asian countries, this one has many things to see and enjoy.The food is delicious, and the people are wonderful. Get there if you can.

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22 July 2015 - THE BAJAU PEOPLE

THE BAJAU PEOPLE

G'day folks,

Welcome to the life of the Bajau people.

Malaysian photographer Ng Choo Kia, who is a member of SIPA Press, has created a beautiful showcase of the Bajau people of Malaysia. Traditionally the Bajau people are a nomadic, seafaring people and some continue this tradition today, which is why they are still commonly called "sea gypsies.”

Other Bajau people have chosen to abandon their traditional lifestyle and are located in Malaysia's eastern state, Sabah, on the island of Borneo. Although no longer nomadic, the sea still plays a major role in their lives, with their villages housed on the water, not far from land. The wooden houses are commonly on stilts overlooking the gorgeous, clear water.

Clancy's comment: Wow, what an interesting world, eh? I imagine that the kids are great swimmers.

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11 December 2012 - Golda Mowe - Guest Author

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GOLDA MOWE

- GUEST AUTHOR

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G'day guys,

Today I am pleased to introduce my first guest author from Sarawak - Golda Mowe. I'm envious already because Sarawak is an enchanting place. Golda  is a writer who loves making up stories from across all genres.  Two generations ago, she would have had to travel dozens of miles between longhouses to get her muse heard, but now she is more than happy to write.

 Welcome, Golda ...

TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR WRITING JOURNEY.

 I have always been fascinated with words.  There was once a time when I would collect dictionaries because I enjoy reading words so much.  When I was thirteen, a language teacher told the class about people who write for a living and I was captivated.  Writing continued to be a huge struggle though, because even when I had a lot of stories to tell I didn’t like anything I wrote.  It was only when I entered my mid thirties that I realised the problem was because I only knew how to write in the Subject-Verb structure.    I had to reteach myself English to be where I am now.

 WHEN AND HOW DID YOU BECOME A WRITER?

 I have a wide range of interests – History, Chemistry, Economics, Mythology, Politics, Language – and the only way I could consolidate all these together was by writing stories.  So somewhere in 2000 I started writing my first manuscript– Dust in the Sun (http://www.gmowe.ws/DustInTheSun_List.html) – which I put up for free on my website.  Two years later I began Iban Dream, and then in 2004 I decided to leave my career for good so I can focus on writing.

 WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT BEING A WRITER?

 The freedom to explore different ideas and the opportunity of learning new things in the process of research.  For example, the Ibans of Sarawak have a lot of taboos on hill rice planting.  One of them is that if a deer feeds in your field while you are clearing the land, you will have a bad harvest for the year.  Deer eat a type of weed called ‘lalang’ or cogon grass.  This weed is extremely hardy and grows thick in areas where the soil is depleted of most nutrients (since it is the only thing that will grow there).  This taboo caught my attention because it could be scientifically explained and it made me wonder if there were other taboos that could be linked to scientific observation, albeit a twisted one.  Sure enough I found many more that are linked to the behaviour of birds and insects.  The observation of animals that indicate a stable eco system is considered a good omen while the over population of a particular species is a bad one.  Since ancient Ibans didn’t know Science, they explained these as messages from gods and spirits.

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WHAT IS THE HARDEST THING ABOUT BEING A WRITER?

 Handling rejection, I guess.  It took me years to find someone who would take time to read even the first chapter of Iban Dream, a novel about a Borneo head-hunter.  In retrospect, I think a lot of people assumed that it was just another testosterone charged story when they read the synopsis.

 WHAT WERE YOU IN A PAST LIFE, BEFORE YOU BECAME A WRITER?

 I was an administrator and a customer service officer.  I enjoyed the work but hated the office politics.  Stories helped me escape into a different, more rational world where good people stay good and bad people are downright awful.

 WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST WRITING ACHIEVEMENT?

 I would say it is my ebook, Iban Dream (http://www.gmowe.ws/IbanDream.html).  While growing up, I loved listening to stories of the heroes and gods of the Ibans so I thought it was strange that so few people outside Sarawak knew about them.  Iban Dream started as an experiment to see if I could write a story based on what I know about these characters.  I started writing it around the year 2002, originally relying on my own childhood memory as well as the work of my favourite naturalist and anthropologist, Charles Hose.  But as my journey deepened, I began to look for more materials and research work to either confirm or correct my memories.  The journey was long and humbling, and, to my mind, well worth the sacrifice I’ve made.

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WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON AT THE MOMENT?

 I have started work on a sequel to Iban Dream because there are still some Dayak taboos and superstition that I couldn’t explore in the first book.  This might be a slow one to finish since I am having problem finding materials to support what I remember from my childhood.  I have also finished writing a book about a 7^th century Javanese prince and am now editing it.  I also update my story website and writing tip blog weekly.

 WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

 Myths, ancient beliefs and superstition are my favourite inspiration.  I feel that many of these stories are honest metaphors of the social norms of a particular period.  For example, in Asian cultures some of the most famous ghost stories are those of women or children.  This may be because people want to believe that the spirits who could not get justice during life, could seek for it after death.  During the Hungry Ghost Festival the Chinese community would set up all kinds of entertainment for these restless ghosts.  It is quite surreal to watch a singer perform on stage in front of dozens of empty chairs.  I think this is a wonderful way to remind us of the terrible injustices that had happened in the past.

 WHAT GENRE DO YOU WRITE?

 Iban Dream is categorised as a mythological fantasy.  I use mythical elements because I want to present my story the way a traditional Iban bard would.  No Iban hero worth his salt would achieve great things without help from the spirits.   In fact, many Ibans in Skrang still believe that during the 3^rd Sadok battle of 1861 between Charles Brooke and Libau Rentap, the goddess Kumang had appeared to Rentap in the form of a hill myna (a black bird) and told him that he could not win that battle, so he and his men had escaped before Brooke’s party took over their fort.

 DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR NEW WRITERS?

 Don’t let other people’s opinions get you down.  Always keep in mind that there are two kind of criticism – toxic and compost.  They both stink but one kills your dream and the other helps it grow.  Know how to separate between the two, because good criticism will really help you become a better writer.  That is why I always insist on honest reviews for my work.  Nobody is perfect, but everybody has room for improvement.

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Copyright Clancy Tucker (c)

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DO YOU SUFFER FROM WRITER’S BLOCK?

 Yes, I do, especially when I am writing articles.  Sometimes it will take me a week just to write one paragraph.  Maybe it is the way my mind works because I don’t have problems with short stories.  I even use them to get out of blocks.

 DO YOU HAVE A PREFERRED WRITING SCHEDULE?

 I write freestyle into a foolscap book, usually in the evening when the house is quiet.  Then I will type in the details or even rewrite parts of the story the following morning.  But when I am writing a book, I will spend large chunks of the day doing research.  Sometimes I won’t be writing for weeks until I get all the details I need.

 DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE WRITING PLACE?

 Anywhere I can sit with my foolscap book on my lap or on a table.  It doesn’t even have to be quiet or secluded because noise can sometimes help me ‘get into character’ as I write a story.

 WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST JOY IN WRITING?

 Believe it or not – putting words together.  It makes me feel like I am playing with LEGO blocks.  Maybe it’s because my parents couldn’t afford to buy Lego blocks for me when I was a kid.

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WHO IS YOUR FAVOURITE AUTHOR AND WHY?

 I can’t just give you one.  Oscar Wilde and JRR Tolkien for their English, Charles Dickens for his exploration of the human condition, H.G. Wells and Michael Crichton for their Science and dozens of others I have managed to get my hands on over the years.

 WHAT’S THE GREATEST COMPLIMENT YOU EVER RECEIVED FROM A READER?

 A reader commented that reading Iban Dream was like reading poetry from start to finish.  I tried so hard to create that effect since traditional Iban storytelling is in verses and song but I never expected anyone to notice.

 WHAT WAS THE WORST COMMENT FROM A READER?

 Most of my readers are Asian, and they are very polite, so I barely get any negative comments.  In the beginning when I first started writing my short stories, I will get comments on bad story flow but I was lucky enough to get critiques that either came with good advice or ones that were so specific, they helped me fixed my problems.

 WRITERS ARE SOMETIMES INFLUENCED BY THINGS THAT HAPPEN IN THEIR OWN LIVES. ARE YOU?

 I was definitely influenced by my Iban great-aunt who loved telling me stories about animals and my father who hunted for wild boar or deer during his free time and then, on his return home, would tell oodles of tall tales for my benefit.  My Iban grandparents also had a fruit orchard in the jungle and they often warned me not to go into the thickets because a bear, a reticulated python or a monster would eat me.  Instead of scaring me, it made me curious about them.  So one afternoon while my grandparents napped, I sneak off into the jungle and found a tiny pond (more like a big puddle) filled with tiny silver fish.  I returned to the place every afternoon for the next few days to play with them.  My grandfather found out and poured weedkiller (I think) into the pond.  I guess, in his mind, a spirit from the pond had enchanted me.  I don’t remember any spirit appearing, though I did like telling stories to the fish.  Interestingly enough, the incident made me very curious about human behaviour.

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OTHER THAN WRITING, WHAT ELSE DO YOU LOVE?

 I love to craft, especially with thread, wool or beads.  I also paint in watercolour once in a while.

 DID YOU HAVE YOUR BOOK / BOOKS PROFESSIONALLY EDITED BEFORE PUBLICATION?

 Yes, I did for Iban Dream.  The publisher at Monsoon Books had it done in-house for me.  The experience was an eye-opener, for it made me aware of my writing ‘tics’.

 DESCRIBE YOUR PERFECT DAY.

 A day when I find exactly the right amount of information for a story, or when I figure out something that had been bothering me for a while.

 IF YOU WERE STUCK ON A DESERT ISLAND WITH ONE PERSON, WHO WOULD IT BE? WHY?

 Dead or alive?  My Peranakan (Chinese-Native mix lineage) grandfather Dennis Mowe because while researching my family history, I learned that he had gone through a terrible family rejection, disdain by his peers on one hand and high expectations from others on the other.  Yet the old man I knew was calm, collected and proud.  It would be nice to have the veil of traditional Asian propriety between us torn, so I can get to really know him and to find out how he had coped.

 WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IF YOU HAD THE CHANCE TO SPEAK TO WORLD LEADERS?

 I would ask them to please consider sustainable living seriously.  Our culture is now so obsessed with growth that most important political decisions pivot around it.  I don’t believe that this is realistic.  Leaders should come up with a different form of measure.  Since firms are already focused on capitalism and growth that can lead to the exploitation, pollution and uprooting of whole communities, government should be the counterbalance.

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WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE?

 Write some more.

 WHAT FIVE BOOKS WOULD YOU TAKE TO HEAVEN?

 Dickens’ Tale of Two Cities, Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings, Charles Hose’s The Field-book of a Jungle Wallah, Ruth Bebe Hill’s Hanta Yo and Ken Follet’s Pillars of the Earth.  All of these have been and still are my inspiration for writing.

 DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN ANY OF YOUR CHARACTERS?

 I definitely do.  If I can’t dream, laugh, love, or cry with a character, I don’t write about them.  I also believe that we are all the same at a certain level so, my hope is, my readers will also see themselves in my work.

 DOES THE PUBLISHING INDUSTRY FRUSTRATE YOU?

 I am frustrated in general but not at the industry.  After all, the industry is going through its own baptism of fire right now.  I hear stories of authors who become millionaires and I also hear stories of authors who live in poverty.  As with all things in life, I believe that there are more authors in the middle between these two extremes.  It would be great though to make my living solely on writing.

 DID YOU EVER THINK OF QUITTING?

 Yes, I have and still do, especially on days when my confidence is low.  But each time I try to figure what else I want to do instead, I come up with nothing.  Storytelling is still my source of joy.

 WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE MANUSCRIPT TO WRITE? WHY?

 Definitely Iban Dream because I get a chance to explore my own culture.  It was challenging to write in the beginning because I had to figure out a way to keep the cultural integrity of the protagonist’s environment yet make it understood by the modern reader.

 ANYTHING YOU’D LIKE TO ADD?

 Many ideas and beliefs are becoming standardized in the world today, leading to the loss of large portions of our cultural history.  If you feel that this is happening to your culture, at the very least journal about it.  It does not matter if you plan to print it or not, just write it down for posterity. Don’t let knowledge that has held your people together and helped them survive for countless generations die.  Your children may think it a waste of time, but your grandchildren may be enriched by it.

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Golda's links:

http://www.gmowe.ws/

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Clancy's comment: thanks, Golda. Don't  give up. Keep writing. You have much to write.

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